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The Lonely Planet Guide to Andalucia
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Flag of AndaluciaEcija

Andalucia

Sevilla

"The City of Sun and Towers" is surrounded by hills on one side and the Genil River on the other, creating an unforgettable sight with its eleven towers, fifteen bell towers, churches, palaces and belvederes, thrusting up from the mass of white houses. This sight alone makes it clear to the traveller why Ecija is considered to be one of southern Europe's most fascinating ancient towns. In the 18th century, its artists and craftsmen endowed it with a truly astounding number of artistic and architectural masterpieces.

Five of its buildings have been classified as national heritage sites, and we will describe them further on. Viewed as a whole, the outstanding features are the remains of the fortified walls, and the charming Andalusian whitewashed houses, lining the streets of the old Moorish town.

The local cuisine includes a wide number of regional specialties, such as cazuela de esparragos (baked young asparagus), espinacas labradas (Andalusian style spinach), and salmorejo, a sort of gazpacho. Sweets include bizcochos marroquies (Morrocan cake) and yemas ecijanas (candied egg yolks). Also noteworthy are the molletes (soft rolls) and the tortas de manteca (flat cakes made with lard).

The local feast days are: Saint Paul (the patron saint) on 25 January; Carnival; Holy Week; the feast day of Ecija's patroness, the Virgen del Valle, on 8 September; Saint Matthew's Fair in the days before and after 21 September, which are the occasion of the Week of the Horse (Semana del Caballo), a major event in the local calendar, since Ecija is the home to horse breeding ranches with names such as Los Abades, San Pablo, Alcorrin, and Casas Albas.

1. CHURCH OF SANTA BARBARA

The bell tower is in the Gothic-Mudejar style; the church is one of Andalusia's earliest Neoclassical churches, with two monumental entrances with granite column shafts from the Roman period. The figures of Jesus sin soga and the Virgen del Patroncinio are by the Sevillian sculptor Montes de Oca (18th century). The figure of Saint Paul is by the local sculptor Salvador G. De Navajas (16th century). The Rococo choir, carved in mahogany, is considered to be the town's loveliest. The dome and plasterwork of the sanctuary chapel are of the 18th century.

2. PALACE OF PEÑAFLOR

This palace has a beautiful marble door of pink marble, and a curving balcony which runs the full length of the facade, painted with trompe l'oeil architectural details. The interior is well appointed, with a fine central patio, stables and main staircase. Classified as a national heritage site.

3. PALACE OF VALDEHERMOSO

Located in front of the Palace of Peñaflor; the 16th century Plateresque façade is distinguished by a balcony framed by highly original columns.

4. CHURCH OF SAN GIL

Paintings on wood of the life of Saint Gilles and the Fathers of the Church, by Alejo Fernandez (16th century). The sanctuary aisle contains handsome altarpieces of the 18th century; the main nave houses the miraculous figure of the Cristo de la Salud (16th century). The Neoclassical altarpiece of the retrochoir contains beautiful stucco work, as well as a painting of the Virgen del Rosario (18th century). Lavish Rococo dome of the baptisterium with baptismal font of red veined marble (18th century).

5. CHURCH OF SANTA ANA

This church, with its rectangular ground plan, dates from the second third of the 18th century. The main altarpiece is Neoclassical. The church contains a group of sculptures of the 18th century representing Saint Anne with the Virgin Mary; there is also a 17th century crucifix.

6. CHURCH OF SAN JUAN

After passing the 18th century Baroque Palacio de Alcantara and the chapel of San Felipe Neri, we come to the church of San Juan. On the great entrance courtyard stands part of an unfinished Neoclassical church, designed by the Cordovan architect Ignacio Tomas. The current church is located in the Renaissance-style nave of the former sanctuary, with a beautiful, coffered dome built in 1608. The 18th century bell tower, designed by local architects A. Corrales and Lucas Bazan, is the city's finest and considered to be one of Andalucia's most outstanding Baroque bell towers.

7. CHURCH OF SAN PABLO AND SANTO DOMINGO

Composed of three naves, the building as it stands today was built in the last part of the 16th century and the first part of the 17th with the bell tower being added much later in 1761. Among the sculptures to be seen in this church is a figure of Saint Paul (dated 1575), one of Saint Dominic (end of the 18th century) and one of Christ bound to the column (1510). Coffered ceiling built towards the end of the 16th century. One of Ecija's most sumptuous Baroque interiors is to be found in the Capilla del Rosario, including a Virgin Mary attributed to Pedro Millan.

8. NOBLE MANORS

Near the end of the Calle Garcilaso we come to a handsome, 17th century noble manor, in the Baroque style, and going down towards the left I another, in the Renaissance style. Don't miss the 18th century Baroque door on the Calle Aguabajo.

9. CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO

This church has three naves; although initially built in the Gothic style, it was totally reconstructed in the 18th century. The door dates from the 17th century. The main altarpiece built in 1730, contains sculptures of Franciscan Saints. The left nave of the church contains a sculpture of Christ bound to the column, from the end of the 16th century.

10. CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA

Standing on the square which bears its name, this church dates from the first half of the 16th century. It is composed of three naves plus a half nave containing the sacramental chapel; it has tow external doors and a bell tower. The decoration of the lower part of the building, built in 1717, is severe; the rest is of Rococo influence. The seats of the choir, built in 1628, are attributed to Juan de Mesa, a local craftsman. Many paintings hang on the walls of the church, most of them of the 18th century. The galleries of the patio contain a magnificent collection of archaeological remains and a great number of impressive religious garments, dating from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, as well as fine examples of gold and silverwork dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The illustrated choir books date from the mid-16th to the end of the 18th century.

11. BENAMEJI PALACE

Built in the 18th century and classified as a national heritage site. Beautiful marble door; the stables house and interesting collection o antique horse-drawn carriages.

12. CHURCH OF SANTIAGO

We pass in front of the church of the Hermanas de la Cruz and walk to the Plaza de Santiago, on which stands the church of the same name. This is one of Andalucia's most important buildings in the Gothic Mudejar style. The paintings of the main altarpiece are attributed to Alejo Fernandez. The ground plan is rectangular and formed by three naves. The church overlooks a trapezoidal patio and has a brick bell tower. The main altarpiece dates from the first half of the 16th century. The sculpture of Christ on the Cross, dated 1685, is by Pedro Roldan. The church possesses and important collection of paintings by Pedro de Campaña, of the mid 16th century. The centre of the altarpiece of the sacramental chapel contains a relief of the Holy Supper, from the mid 16th century. The ewer (wash basin) in the sacristy is in white, black and pink marble, made in 1740 by Pedro Fernandez. The gold and silverwork ranges from the first half of the 16th century to the early 19th century.

13. CHURCH OF LA CONCEPCION

Founded in 1592, this church is composed of a single nave; the door is Renaissance and the main altarpiece (17th century) contains a Virgin Mary by Gaspar de Aguila (16th century).

14. CHURCH OF EL CARMEN

This church is believed to have been founded in the first half of the 16th century. Its two naves are home to a large collection of paintings: in the main altarpiece (18th century), is a lovely image of the Virgen del Carmen, from the first half of the 18th century. The group of La Piedad is attributed to Jorge Fernandez (16th century).

15. COURT HOUSE

Built in 1923. Decorated in the Neo-Moorish style, with tiles from the Kierman factory.

16. CHURCH OF LOS DESCALZOS

Inaugurated in 1614, this church has a single nave. The chancel dates from the first half of the 18th century. One of the most lavish 18th century Baroque interiors in Andalucia.

17. CONVENT OF LOS MARROQUIES

Composed of a single nave with an impressive coffered ceiling in the Mudejar style. The right hand wall contains a number of Neoclassical altarpieces with fine sculptures including a Christ on the Cross of the end of the 15th century. The sacristy houses lovely pieces of gold and silverwork, most of which are of the 18th century.

18. CHURCH OF SANTA CRUZ

Built between 1776 and 1836. The main altarpiece is of the first half of the 18th century. The altar table is formed by a 5th century early Christian sarcophagus. The sculpture of Christ on the Cross was made by Gaspar del Aguila in 1567. In one of the church's three naves is a fine sculpture of the Virgen del Valle of the end of the 13th century. The church also contains an outstanding painting entitled Christ Source of Life (Cristo Fuente de la Vida), created by Pedro Villegas Marmolejo in 1550. In one of the chapels is the figure of Christ Resurrected (circa 1600). This church is a virtual museum of the gold and silverwork of Ecija, containing objects such as the monstrance made by the silversmith Alfaro in 1586.

19. CONVENT OF LAS TERESAS

Previously an ancient Mudejar palace, this convent was built in the 14th and 15th centuries. The small church was built in the 17th century. One of the altarpieces is dedicated to Saint Teresa (17th century).

20. OTHER CHURCHES

Iglesia de las Salesianas, Iglesia de la Victoria, Iglesia del Convento de Santa Florentina, Iglesia de las Madres Filipenses, Iglesia de San Sebastian, Iglesia del Convento de Sant Ines del Valle and the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Valle..

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The Rough Guide
to Andalucia
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